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Most widely held works by Barbara Vinken. Or are "pioneering" designs simply part of a cyclical revival of forgotten fashions? Looking at some of the most influential designers of the twentieth century--from Yamamoto to Gaultier to Lagerfeld--Vinken considers the politics and philosophies that have been the driving force directing their sense of style. Vinken shows how fashion trends are informed by the past.

Chanel, under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld, is viewed as the only fashion house to have remained fresh after one hundred years, yet is this success essentially proof of the self-referential qualities fashion has adopted? What inspired the fetish for labels at the end of the twentieth century? Answering these questions and many more, this thought-provoking book shows how beauty, gender, sexuality, commerce, and dandyism have persisted in defining the fashion system.


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This book showcases his specific and highly refined imaginary as at once unique and symptomatic of an era. In particular, it contributes to the controversial discussion of modernity's relation to religion, a topic that has only become more pressing at a time when new religious fundamentalisms are on the rise throughout the world.

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Through this single acclaimed author, we realize that modernity can only be understood in terms of its critical rewriting of religious dogma. Strikingly, already in Flaubert, such rewriting emerges in conjunction with questions of the Orient and Orientalism. What's more, Flaubert's Orient is an Other already within Western society.

By highlighting the complexity of the relation between religion, modernity, and the Oriental, Vinken's discussion goes beyond simple binaries. Her Flaubert Postsecular is a model of scholarly research with far-reaching political implications. Man hat deswegen von der Tyrannei der Mode gesprochen, die aus dem Blauen heraus ihre Launen diktiert.

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Doch bei genauerer Betrachtung entpuppt sie sich als ein Spiel nach Regeln - und als ein differenziertes Zeichensystem im historischen Wandel. If other cookies such as those used to analyze your surfing behavior are also stored, they will be treated separately in this privacy policy. We do not share this information without your permission. You may revoke your consent at any time.

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An Interview with Barbara Vinken: “Fashion as a seismograph of society” - Goethe-Institut

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