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He was a dark-skinned, middle-aged man, dressed in shabby pants and a plain blouse; his face remained hidden under the shade of a soft hat, but his smile shone brightly even from afar. He stood proudly in the center of the island and, like a rooster in a hencoop, was surrounded with a few kids and several women of a variety of ages, all of whom were similarly dark-skinned. Unlike him, though, their faces were expressionless as if carved out of an ancient trunk, and they were dressed in vivid colors that looked dazzling against the blue of the shimmering lake on that sunny August morning.

We docked our speed boat next to the traditional balsa the local reed boat , and tottered our way ashore, floating at an elevation of more than m, and sinking a little bit with each step into a wobbly ground that seemed like a grand pallet. We sat in a semi-circle, on heaps of reeds bundled together and covered with colorful woolen blankets, and, I felt, it was a pity the day was still young, for this should have been a storytelling experience to be lived under the starry sky.

The Uros people surrounded us, emitting the familiar enchantment conveyed by everything new and unusual, while the legendary waters kept on flapping and murmuring under our feet, rattled by the ongoing wake of the numerous boats. El Presidente remained at his position, demonstrating step-by-step the traditional technique of building a floating island. Initially, a basis is created out of the dense roots of the totora reeds — which are native and abundant in the lake.

Rendez vous hotel - La Paz Forum

Then, layers of reeds are placed crosswise on top, acting as the stepping ground. In turn, reed huts are erected, a watch tower, a deck for the rafts and, very often now, small solar panels for electricity. A few hours later, I awoke to a strange noise. Someone was throwing rocks at my window? Shaken and thinking it was the town drunk, I yelled at the person to go away. Then they tried to open the door, and I screamed like the 9 year old I child I clearly still am —er I mean once was. Our late night visitor turned out to be Joolee, who was trying to wake us up because Bill had developed severe altitude sickness.

He needed to be taken back to a lower altitude ASAP. Joolee quickly organized transport for her and Bill to get to a doctor in La Paz. Neither sickness nor my childlike behaviour ruined any of our trip, and as in , Joolee was amazing and forgiving. John and I had a blast with Bill and Joolee. Most importantly I got to spend quality time with Joolee who I have always looked up to as a role model, and a true sister. Libby Lou…thank you for this! Thank you for sharing! O How are you? I do remember that suit! Actually I have a picture of you Libby, sitting at a plastic table in that bathing suit coloring.

Was that his name? Yes he was with us and you guys split one bathing suit…..

Southern circuit - Classic Peru Culture and Natural History

Susan…are you 40 yet? Oh my, I hope I got the bottoms. Was that the day Julie and I sat on the front of your yellow car? It was you, me, Julie, Jay, your brother maybe…. I was so clueless!!!!! I love you guys! How are the twins?


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On this trip you do not have to be an expert birdwatcher. In fact you may just have started looking at birds at your feeder back home.

On the other hand if you are into seabirds this is the trip for you with several opportunities to do sea watching and a short pelagic where the Humboldt Current is close to the Peruvian mainland. Bring with you your explorer's spirit and the desire to learn more than you thought about Peru.

This is NOT an ordinary birdwatching trip, It has much more that. Still some bird species will be seen well by all participants on this trip including most endemics and regional birds. Even if you are not a birder, join this trip for splendid scenery and historical sites, and if you are only a part timer, the birds are easy to see and the guides are patient.

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You should have a general interest in nature. Some participants will have very little experience of South America or may only just have got into birds by watching birds at their feeders back home. We follow principally the same circuit followed by most visitors to Peru each year.

To contemplate the Andes and experience the land of the Incas and their ancestors. On this trip we go a bit further; Kolibri Expeditions is unique in offering this trip as a natural history and cultural experience with expert guides. There will often be two guides with different specialities, be it nature, history, culture and everything in between. The key ingredient on these trips is the explorer's spirit.


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There will be talks on history, archeology, politics such as. When looking at the birds, the animals and the plants, we will not just tell you what they are, but we will tell you something about them. We will pay attention to behavior. In general pace is slow, but we do start with early mornings.

We try and reach our overnight destinations while it still is daylight. Lunches will often be served on the bus or as roadside picnics so not to lose precious traveling time. The trip can be started with our Lima Days program, short Lima excursions prior to or after the main trip. These trips are also more than just birding with plants and other nature interests.

Depending on the time of the year there may be other interesting activities such as the Mistura Food Festival. The tour is offered in two comfort levels. Our Kolibri Pro level with carefully selected mid-range hotels and MST level with the star hotels throughout. Most people will use this day for arrival especially those coming from Europe , but if you arrive early check out the excursions available from Lima. Not included Kolibri Pro: Casa Andina Private Collection.

An introduction to the birds of urban Lima at a MIraflores park before breakfast. After breakfast we'll visit the Archeological Museum where Peruvian treasures of pre-Colombian civilizations are displayed. This gives us the necessary framework to put the rest of our journey in Southern Peru. Our first stop is the marshes of Pantanos de Villa This species rich wet-land has been proposed to become a private reserve. We continue to Paracas for an overnight stay. In the morning we take a short boat trip to the Ballestas Islands, later exploring the Paracas Peninsula. On the southern shores of the peninsula there are pelagic species, as well as South American Fur Seals.

Arrive in Lima

The Paracas desert is a play with sunlight on the different colored sand formations. Flocks of Gray Gulls are often seen roosting in the desert. There is a small museum on the site that we can visit. On the way to Ica about an hour away, we will visit a vineyard where we learn about the wine and pisco industry, which in many cases are still artisanal. In Ica we visit the small, but excellent municipal museum, which has nice displays of the Paracas, Nazca and Wari cultures that were important civilisations of Ica department.

We will be shown the art of trepanation and skull deformation elongation practiced by the ancient cultures in this region. There is a small model of the Nazca Lines that gives an idea what the lines will look like from the air. We continue to Nazca. We stay at a nice hotel where it is possible to relax by the pool in the afternoon or take an excursion to the interesting pre-inca aquaducts outside of town.

Southern Circuit - Birding Machu Picchu, Nazca lines and Titicaca lake

Always good chance to do some birdwatching. Slender-billed Finch and Peruvian Pygmy-Owls have been seen here. Back to the hotel for breakfast and check-out. You may fly over the Nazca lines cost not included.